How To Install Speedometer Cable

Remove/Install Instrument Cluster/Speedometer Cable

Please run across our give-and-take of the Instrument Cluster
for more information. ~~~

Note: For this process Only, "forepart" will mean the side of the instrument cluster from which the commuter views the gauges; "back" will mean the side of the instrument cluster to which the speedometer cable and the various wires are attached. This utilize of "front" and "back" is opposite the convention normally used in discussing VWs, where "front" means the front of the car and "back" ways the dorsum of the car. It just doesn't brand sense to refer to the face of the instrument cluster as the "back."

BUT - This use of "forepart" and "dorsum" applies to
this procedure ONLY. ~~~

The following topics related to the instrument cluster are discussed herein -

• Instrument Cluster Removal
• Musical instrument Cluster Wiring
• Instrument Cluster Wiring Diagram
• Instrument Cluster Lights
• Speedometer Cablevision Removal
• Speedometer Cablevision Installation
• Instrument Cluster Installation

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Instrument Cluster Removal

1. Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal.
2. Remove the instrument cluster by carefully prying it away from the dash with your fingers (if you use a screwdriver, exist very careful not to scratch the dash or the bezel around the musical instrument cluster.

Note: The musical instrument cluster is just pressed into the dash and held in identify by a ribbed safety boot that fits effectually information technology.

3. Disconnect the speedometer cablevision from the speedometer past unscrewing the threaded fitting that attaches it to the dorsum of the instrument cluster. This fitting should but be finger tight.
4. If yous demand to take the musical instrument cluster completely out of the car, make a diagram of the back side of the instrument cluster (encounter below) and clearly label all of the wires (there are a total of twelve connectedness points), with each of the connexion points on your diagram labeled with the number of the wire connecting to it. It is besides a good idea to note all of the wire colors on your diagram just to brand certain. Trying to rewire the cluster from retention will cause you no stop of fits!

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Instrument Cluster Wiring

Following is a diagram of the back side of the musical instrument cluster that Dave drew the kickoff fourth dimension he removed the cluster.

Backside of the Instrument Cluster Showing Wiring Configuration

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Musical instrument Cluster Lights

Someone wrote to say -- I take a 1972 standard Beetle. One of the bulbs in the instrument cluster by the speedometer is 'out.' The place I have taken my Bug (run past a German language mechanic who is very knowledgeable well-nigh Bugs) says he tin't become a new bulb to work in the socket where the extinguished bulb is. My question: is there a brighter type of bulb that I could utilise in place of the working bulb that would give me more lite at night?

Dave responded -- Get-go, regarding replacement of the instrument cluster bulbs: These piffling 1.ii-amp bulbs are readily available (for case, from Aircooled.Net). I replaced all six of them in my '73 instrument cluster, which I don't think is any unlike from the '72 instrument cluster.

Check out our Instrument Cluster Wiring process. There is a diagram there of the rear of the cluster, showing the location of the half-dozen footling lights at #2, #iii, #6, #9, #10 and #12.

You lot tin can hands exercise this task yourself; instructions are given earlier in the procedure. The hardest office is getting the speedometer cable removed and replaced.

Be sure to follow the instructions advisedly regarding the wiring -- label each wire per the diagram and so you get them all back in exactly the right place. Other than that replacing the bulbs is way like shooting fish in a barrel.

Regarding brighter bulbs, Dave wrote -- I don�t know of any brighter lights. I only see the one.2W �wheat-manner� bulbs bachelor commercially, at about two bucks apiece. Personally, given the rheostat in the dash, I accept establish the standard bulbs plenty bright enough at dark.

The question continued -- I find that the sole working bulb sometimes goes out, but if I tap the glass it comes back on. The rheostat sometimes works, sometimes doesn't (in that when I turn information technology brighter, it brightens sometimes, and the bulb goes out sometimes). Does this indicate a dissimilar problem?

Dave responded -- I would strongly suspect that problem is due to a loose or otherwise faulty connection. I would recommend taking the instrument cluster out (advisedly mark the wires, of course, or yous'll have a near interesting time rewiring the babe) and laying information technology on your workbench (or your married woman's kitchen table :-) where you tin ponder over information technology. Examination the instrument cluster bulbs as follows (you don't want to go to all the trouble of reinstalling the musical instrument cluster (reattaching the speedometer cable is VERY difficult) simply to detect later on on that i of the bulbs wasn't functioning).

This is how I did it -

1. Connect the ground strip on the lower back of the instrument cluster to the negative concluding on the battery with a test atomic number 82.
2. Connect a test lead to the positive last (big alligator clip) of the battery and so touch on the other terminate of the pb to each of the spade connectors on the lights in succession.
3. If the bulb is good, the light volition come up on when subjected to this test.

When you lot put information technology back together, make certain the bulbs are firmly seated in their sockets and the wiring connections are solid.

I don't know exactly what causes the problem with the rheostat, but mine is the same way. It may but be the nature of the beast.

~~~

Speedometer Cable Removal

1. Firmly set the parking brake, block the rear wheels, heighten the front of the car and set it firmly on jack stands.
2. Working on the commuter's side of the car, remove the circlip which secures the cease of the cable to the outside of the bike bearing dust cap.
3. Working from the back side of the driver's side front bike, pull the cable out of the steering knuckle.
4. Pull the speedometer completely out through the hole in the dash.

Note: It will aid to have an banana under the car as you slowly pull the cable out so he can notation the routing. Getting the new cable dorsum in tin be tricky. Another idea that nosotros have used with success is to necktie a string to the end of the cablevision, which is and then pulled exactly through the road that the cable had taken.

~~~

Speedometer Cable Installation

1. Pull the cable right out of it's sheath, wipe it clean with a rag, and rub grease down information technology's length with your fingers. Reinsert the cable in the sheath.

Note: If you are only lubricating a cable that you plan to reuse, grease information technology carefully, as you lot may find a 'sprung' wire or ii, and wire punctures in the skin HURT. This volition also tell yous if it needs replacing again :-) The cable normally breaks most the bicycle finish, equally this bit gets flexed in all directions and the wheel bounces and steers.

2. Information technology'south a adept idea to install a new prophylactic sleeve in the steering knuckle to keep water out. If water gets into the knuckle, it can damage the bearings and allow the cablevision to freeze--and stick--in the wintertime.
3. Working with one person in the car and ane person under the automobile, road the new cable from the hole in the dash through the hole in the firewall (there should be a grommet in this pigsty) and on downward to the back side of the steering knuckle, following the aforementioned road that the former cable took.

Note: Route the cable to eliminate sharp bends (no radius less than six inches). Make sure it isn't kinked or pulled too tight anywhere in the turning radius of the front wheel. Exist careful non to unseat the grommet when threading the new cable through.

4. Insert the wheel-end of the cable into the steering knuckle (from the back side). Yous will probably have to remove the dust cover to get the end of the cablevision properly aligned in the square hole. Install a new circlip at the end of the cablevision.

Note: It is really the grit cap which turns the cable and thus drives the speedometer and odometer. You will note that the end of the cable is square and has a slot around it. This fitting protrudes through a square hole in the dust cap, secured there with a circlip in the slot. This causes the cable to turn as the front wheel turns, with speed proportional to the speed of the automobile. Make sure the end of the cablevision is seated securely in the dust cap.

Also note: It'southward important to get the cycle diameter right, or the speedometer will read incorrectly. The correctly-sized tyre has a bore of effectually 24 inches - the stock tyre is 165SR15.

5. Spiral the threaded plumbing equipment on the dashboard end of the speedometer to the back of the instrument cluster.

Note: This is the hardest function of the job. You lot need very small hands and very potent fingers!

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Musical instrument Cluster Installation

1. Carefully reattach all of the wires (12) to the back of the musical instrument cluster, making doubly certain that each attaches at the correct point (run into the diagram higher up or the diagram you prepared that is specific to your situation).
2. Orient the cluster properly and printing it back into the pigsty in the dash.
3. Bank check the operation of the warning lights, the turn signal indicators, and the high beam indicator.

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Source: http://www.vw-resource.com/speedo.html

Posted by: maynardbuourproy67.blogspot.com

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